Zoo Aquarium de Madrid

Zoo Aquarium de Madrid sits within the vast Casa de Campo park in the Moncloa-Aravaca district, about twenty minutes from the city centre by Metro (line 10, Casa de Campo station). The grounds cover 14 hectares, which sounds generous until 1.

5 million visitors a year descend on it — weekends in summer are genuinely hectic, and the queues for the giant panda enclosure can stretch well beyond thirty minutes by mid-morning.

The pandas are the undisputed draw. Madrid has had giant pandas since 1978, and the current family group — part of a long-running breeding agreement with China — represents one of Europe's more established panda programmes. The dedicated panda house is purpose-built with climate control, which means it is dim, warm, and crowded inside. Arrive at opening (10am) if you want a clear view.

Gorilla Island is a far more spacious affair and worth lingering at; the western lowland gorilla troop is active in the mornings, and the moated island enclosure gives the animals room to behave naturally. The dolphinarium draws large crowds for its shows — a source of ongoing debate among welfare advocates, and worth weighing up before you buy the combined ticket.

Some of the older enclosures show their age — this zoo dates to 1770 in its original form, and not every habitat has been redesigned with modern standards in mind. The aquarium section, however, is a genuine highlight and a good shaded retreat during Madrid's brutal July and August heat.

Allow a full day, bring water and sun protection from spring onwards, and go on a weekday morning if you possibly can.